Sunday, March 8, 2015

Diving and Dominating Indonesia

Before writing this post I feel like I need to  put a disclosure of sorts: The last few weeks of my trip felt a lot longer than a few weeks, they were so jam packed that I probably spent more time in a car, bus, plane, or boat than in a bed. So here goes my attempt to wrap it all up...
After three seasons of working at Echo Hill, I have one favorite passport/debrief question: What is your ultimate adventure dream? For me this was always to go scuba driving in Thailand. Thus, I found myself on the island of Ko Lanta to dive and explore the colorful coral, rock formations, and aquatic life in the marine park of Ko Haa an hour boat ride from the shore. I spent a few days with my rented motorbike exploring many of the less-inhabited baches of Ko Lanta and one day in the sea. My dives couldn't have been better- except for maybe seeing the whale shark that was spotted swimming between the islands we explored earlier that morning. Regardless, my dive instructor was very well versed in all things diving and the natural world that make up the ecosystem of Ko Haa. We did three dives through the day watching turtles put on a show (among other life like a frogfish!), swimming through fish bowls, drift diving, and surfacing in underwater caves. Having only dove in one other place before it was really neat getting a variety of dives and adding variety to my skills set. Underwater is truly a magical and mind blowing place.
While Ko Lanta was beautiful, I moved on quickly for one day in Malyasia in route to Indonesia.I picked what I thought the easiest ferry/bus out of the island for the island of Penang into Malaysia. Yet, it turns out that my bus wasn't easy due to the fact that everyone had left Malaysia for Chinese New Year and happened to be crossing the boarder going home the same day I did. What should have been a nine hour bus ride turned into 14 hours- most of which was spent at the boarder waiting for our bus to get through the insane traffic and work out the logistics of someone bumper tapping him from behind. Once we finally arrived to Penang I was stoked to find some cheap fried rice and that Malaysia has beers that aren't just lagers. 
My one day in Malaysia was focused on a self-made scavenger hunt of nifty street art tucked  away in random alleyways and corners and  eating as much Chinese and Indian food as I could fit in through the day.
                                
Georgetown (the city on Penang) is known for its cultural food and there is reason for that! I had the most amazing Chinese noodle soup, naan, chai tea (in a bag), and samosas. The thought of it is making me drool now...and jump want to jump the next plane to India...(don't worry Mom I am still coming home.)
From Georgetown I had another long travel day with two buses to the airport in Kuala Lampor and a flight to Java, Indonesia.
Indonesia was put aside as the finale of my trip and I feel like my 11 days in Indo were an epic success. Lucky for me I wasn't in alone for this last adventure. Flashback a year and a half ago to my adventures in Nicaragua- hiking volcanoes and getting a bit of the beaten track. My partner in crime from that trip, Jack, and I met up in Indonesia to see what other shinangs we could get ourself into.
Being on Volcanic Islands we immediately headed to volcano Bromo. The volcano itself doesn't sit that high anymore, but it is sitting in a field of ash and sand that make it appear to pop out of nowhere. The volcano is still active and Jack and I went up there in the afternoon after all the other tourists had left and were able to explore around the crater. I managed to not fall in (barely) and we were able to skate down the side and leave our mark for all to see. This tacked up number five volcano for the two of us adventuring together.
                               
The next morning we awoke at 4 am hiked up the mountain next to the little town outside if Bromo for the second time (when mountains are super cloudy it is easier to think volcanos are the big thing in front of you, at least we did the day before...oops!) to watch the sunrise. The view was great of not only Bromo, but the volcano Semeru behind it that we sadly weren't able to hike because of rainy season. 
                     

Since our dreams of hiking Semeru were crushed we headed to the next best thing on Java-Volcano Ijen. Ijen is in the middle of nowhere on the eastern side of the island and it is harder to get to and leave than one might imagine. Jack and I both don't like to book the packaged deals and travel in packs so we opted to find our own transport. We awoke at 2am to catch a motorcycle and hike the 3km up Ijen and into the sulphuric depths. Little to our knowledge or understanding Ijen is a sight because of the blue fire inside the crater. It is mined throughout the night and morning by men carrying baskets of over 100 kg (over 220 lbs) of sulphur out of the steep crater of the volcano.

Because of this mining the crater releases a sulphuric gas that combusts in a blue flame when it hits the oxygen in our atmosphere.
                                  
It is quite a sight for sore eyes and sore lungs. I can't believe people work in this setting every day. We rented gas maxes to go down into the crater and I was still nearly blown away by the fumes when the wind changed. I haven't been able to wash, thus wear my sweatshirt since.
As I mentioned it is harder to get out of this little area than we thought. It took Jack and I an hour back at the hotel to realize that no buses left from this area-unless you booked the full tour. Still worth the refreshing and view filled motor bike ride but also a bit lame. We had to hire our first car to get us to the ferry just in time to cross over to Bali. After a lot of days of little-to-no sleep and more time in transport than anticipated we opted to find a homebase for a few nights. We headed to Sanur on the east coast of Bali for a night in order to catch the ferry to the island Lembongan for some fun in the sun, not before I coaxed Jack out of his slumber for a sunrise chase.
                         
This island was the perfect island for me. In yoga the morning before I left someone asked me if I lived there, because I "have the look of someone that lived there." Why thank you!
Jack and I were able to scrape up a bit of shenanigans on the island too. The day we arrived we rented a motorbike and got a little lost and some pretty fantastic beaches and seaweed farms and even more fantastic coves with cliffs to jump off of. The jump we found was 13 meters (my highest to date) and into amazing blue water overlooking a beautiful cliff cove. So breathtaking! 
                                       
The next two days I followed my childhood dream and took some real surfing lessons. It turns out being an athlete really helps in picking up new sports, but mastering them is a bit harder. I was able to catch most of the waves I went for with the coaching of my instructor, and even start the concept of turning. I'm officially hooked and can't wait to surf elsewhere in the world!
Jack joined for my first day of surfing, and we spent the afternoon snorkeling in some of the most dense and lively choral I have ever seen before he headed to Sanur to kite surf and I stayed for one more day of waves and yoga. Lembongan is somewhere I could see myself going back to and staying for a while...but as it goes we had more to conquer.
Later in the day, I met up with Jack again spent the day in Sanur finishing up souvineer shopping before we hired yet another rickety car headed to Tulamben on the Nothern coast where the U.S.A.T. Liberty was sunk by the Japanses in the 1940s and brought closer to shore with the the eruption of Volcano Agung in the 1960s. This was my first wreck dive and it was really neat to see how nature had completey taken over the man made structure. Our dive instructor awoke is at sunrise and we got into the water straight from the shore. Going early allowed us to see giant bump head parrotfish and have the wreck nearly to ourselves. It also allowed us for more than enough time for our nitrogen to equalize befor our planned overnight assent of the very volcano that brought the ship to shore. 
                       
We spent the rest of the day riding the coast on a motorbike through rice terraces, past many dive shops, and crossing a number of rain rivers before we braved the rainy volcano by foot. We departed the hotel at 9pm to arrive at the trail at 11pm for the said 6 hour sunrise hike. When we left the trail there was a light rain, but by an hour in we were completely water logged and trekking up completely eroded trails with tree roots acting as our hand holds. To be quite honest I was really testing the limits of my comfort zone. Along with the physical discomfort of the cold, I wanted to see where I was and couldn't. My job is to take kids hiking, to take kids outdoors in the dark, and to get them out in the rain. Never have I done all three at the same time for such an extended period of time--a new respect for the kids' comfort zones. My limit was really pressed every time we stopped and my body temperature dropped to an uncomfortable low with wet bodies winds whipped around us. Near the peak (but unaware of our location) our guide stopped us and feel asleep. Little did we know we were three hours early and expected to sleep as well. We tried the emperor penguin tactic and huddled out of the wind for warmth, but it seemed to do little for the both of us. Finally after seemingly two hours our guide woke up from the cold and concluded due to the clouds we wouldn't have much of a sunrise. So we trekked on to the top where my body temperature rose from the hike, but the winds were sending sleet and colder temperatures on us. Despite the darkness and the clouds the view was pretty phenominal. Peeking through the clouds were the lights of Bali and some of the nearby islands. It was still an easy decision not to wait out the cloudy and grey sunrise and start our decent to where dry clothes awaited us. Since it was finally morning my head was in much better place, but I still loath going down after hiking. It took us quite a while to safely navigate the trails and take care on our knees, after ten hours round trip (including our breaks in the climb and breakfast break down) we made it back to the trail head to put volcano number seven in our books.

Our driver dropped us off in the hippie Eat, Pray, Love town of Ubud where most people visiting spend a number of days doing yoga,eating organic food, and relaxing. Here Jack and I treated ourselves to Italian and Indian before he caugh his flight back to Timor and my flight got delayed for a day to enjoy Ubud fully. I spent my last day getting a massage (Balinese outdo the Thai on this ten fold) and doing the best and most challenge yoga yet (another thing I am getting hooked on.)
Now I find myself in at the airport Thailand full from all my favorite treats and reflecting on my journey. Travel sure is something. I am incredibly elated I have had to opportunity to see all the beautiful things I have in my short life- knowing that there is no end to my passion to explore the world. I am also grateful that I had to find my way to explore most of these things solita. There is some empowerment in being a traveler, but doing it alone is a whole other sense of accomplishment. I am stronger, more aware, and a better version of me because of it. With that said, I am thankful for all the people I have met in travels, especially those that I have been able to meet up with time and time again. Especially Jack, who we constantly push each other for the fullest experience, and AB, who has been there for my highest of highs and lowest of lows. Now that I am so comfortable with myself, I can't wait to continue sharing these journeys with new and old travel buddies. Especially my next travel buddy... My mama my drive back the the Northeast in less than a week! The fun never stops!